Table of Contents

Overview

Defined by a steeply overhanging base, a sloping traverse across the middle and a pocketed upper wall this face has a lot of good problems and plenty of potential. Often the trickiest part to straight-up problems is finding your foot placements on the overhanging lower section. Once you've learnt where these are a world of opportunities opens up (and the straight-up problems are a little less desperate).

Topo

heeley_original_south.jpg

Problems

Problem Sequence FA Date
Break Traverse Traverse the Large break from the left end of The Prow to The Flake in either direction, eliminate holds as you get stronger. Good when continued along the break around the Nose - -
Low Traverse Traverse from the Wall to the Flake L to R staying below the break. Fingery. Harder R to L. Good when continued below the break around the Nose BA -
Pocket Problem L23 R20 R40 L46 R56 L68 BA 2014
Curving Pockets L+R15 L+R28 L39 R52 L55 R66, top BA -
Two Holes L+R15, L + R 57, top BA -
Corner wall L+R13 L32 R33/34 L58 R61 top NS -
The Flake Sit start, with hands on horizontal bottom of flake and lay-back to the top (easier if hands start on vertical part of flake). - -
None of this Aeropress Bollocks NB This problem starts with orange numbered holds on The Prow. Sit start left of 24. R41(orange, small diagonal finger edge just L of 1) L35 (Orange) L40( Orange) R45(bottom part only) R44 L45(bottom part only) R56(dish, no pinch) L68 Top DT 2012
Daveja Vu 40 Moves NB This problem starts with orange numbered holds on The Prow. Sit start on R side of Prow, L35(Orange) R41(Orange). R24 L40(Orange) R45(bottom part) L48 R40 L46 R52 L40 R32 L52 R36 L35 R7(on West Wall) L17 R44(edge) L6 R60 L44(edge) R66 L38 R69 L31 R38 L17 R44 L6 R11 L35(on South Wall etc) R36 L52 R32 L40 R52 L46 R40 L48 R42 (undercut) L72(orange) R24 L40(orange) And repeat! DT 2015-09-20
30 Moves This is just a shorter version of Daveja Vu. After R7(on West Wall) L17 R44 (edge) L6 miss out “10 Moves” continuing R11 L35 (on South Wall etc) back to start DT 2015-10-24
Avoiding the Difficulties L18 R15 (Left side) L41 R37 L56 R63 NS 2016-04-11
Difficulty Avoiding L1 R23 L24 R42 (Undercut) L76 R70 (vertical side-pull below) NS 2016-09-22